Driving the Amalfi Coast SS163: rules, tips, and plate-alternation explained
Amalfi Coast Private Tour
Can I drive the Amalfi Coast in a hire car and what is the plate-alternation rule?
You can drive the SS163 outside peak hours and season. In summer (roughly June–September), a plate-alternation rule bans even-numbered plates on odd dates and vice versa, 10:00–18:00. Scooters are exempt. Fines start at €80. In July–August, taking the bus or ferry is less stressful than driving.
The SS163: what kind of road this actually is
The Statale 163 Amalfitana was built in the 19th century (completed 1853) along a route that had previously been accessible only by mule track and boat. For the first time, the villages of the Amalfi Coast were connected by a continuous road — one that clings to the cliff face at heights of 50–200 metres above the sea.
The road is 40 kilometres long between Vietri sul Mare (east) and the junction with the SS145 near Positano (west). It is single-lane in sections, with designated passing bays. The road is used by: regular passenger cars, hire cars, SITA buses (full-size coaches), tour minivans, local scooters and motorcycles, delivery vehicles, local residents, and occasional herds of goats. At peak summer daytime hours, the flow in both directions creates regular bottlenecks at the narrow sections, particularly between Amalfi and Positano.
This is not the M1 motorway. People drive it successfully every day, but it requires specific preparation.
The plate-alternation rule: understanding it correctly
The alternating traffic restriction (divieto di circolazione a targhe alterne) on the SS163 is introduced most summers by the Regione Campania to reduce congestion on the most-used sections of the road. The exact dates and hours are announced in May or June for the coming season.
How it works:
- On odd calendar dates (1st, 3rd, 5th…), vehicles with registration plates ending in an odd digit may circulate freely.
- On even calendar dates (2nd, 4th, 6th…), vehicles with plates ending in an even digit may circulate.
- The restriction typically runs between 10:00 and 18:00.
- Excluded: motorcycles, scooters, buses, taxis, vehicles with disability plates, emergency services.
Why hire car companies matter here: If you hire a car with a plate ending in an odd digit and you plan to drive the SS163 on an even date between 10:00 and 18:00, you will be turned back or fined (minimum €80). Camera enforcement exists at certain points. Because Italy issues plates sequentially without regard to hire car company choice, you may not know what plate you get until you pick up the car.
Practical workarounds:
- Ask the hire company whether they can allocate a specific plate ending before your trip. Most cannot guarantee this.
- Plan your SS163 driving outside the 10:00–18:00 window. The road is genuinely beautiful — and much quieter — before 9:00 and after 19:00.
- Use the SITA bus for peak-hour movements and drive outside restriction hours.
- Drive the alternative inland route (SS163d via Chiunzi) on restricted days.
Road difficulty: what to actually expect
The SS163 between Positano and Amalfi is the most challenging section. The road narrows to approximately 4–5 metres in width at several points (narrower than many suburban roads), with unguarded drops and oncoming traffic. The hairpin bends (particularly approaching Praiano and between Conca dei Marini and Furore) require pulling wide and sometimes backing up to let coaches through.
What driving this road feels like in practice (peak summer, midday): Traffic is slow — averaging 20–30 km/h for the whole route rather than the theoretical 50 km/h limit. You will encounter 1–3 coaches per kilometre. At narrow sections, one vehicle waits while the other passes. Local scooters filter through stationary traffic. A 12-kilometre drive from Positano to Amalfi might take 40–55 minutes in July–August traffic.
Early morning (6:00–9:00): A genuinely different experience. The road is quiet, the light is extraordinary, and the drive is one of the great scenic routes in Europe.
Evening (19:00–22:00): Quieter than midday but not empty. Some drivers use headlamps on the narrower sections.
ZTL zones and parking
Both Positano and Amalfi town centre have ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) designations. Driving into the ZTL without authorisation triggers automated camera fines — typically €160–200 per infraction.
Positano ZTL: The town centre and the steps area below the SS163 are ZTL. The authorised car park (Parcheggio Comunale) near the Tre Viole bus stop is outside the ZTL. Hotels in Positano that lie within the ZTL can register your plate for authorised access — arrange this before arriving.
Amalfi ZTL: The historic centre (waterfront area) is controlled access. The car park at Piazza Flavio Gioia is the designated public parking.
Praiano: No ZTL, but parking is limited. The main car park on the SS163 fills by 10:00 in summer.
Best strategy for a full coast day: Park at Vietri sul Mare (free or low-cost parking, good connections) and take the SITA bus west along the coast. Or park at Sorrento and take the bus east. This eliminates all ZTL risk and plate-alternation problems.
Hiring a driver instead of driving yourself
For visitors who want the flexibility of private transport without the stress of driving the SS163 themselves, a hired driver or private tour is a reasonable alternative. The cost — typically €200–350 for a full day including the driver’s vehicle — is higher than hiring a car, but the driver handles all parking, knows the road, and can wait while you visit sites.
Amalfi Coast private car and driver from Naples (8 hours)Vespa and scooter hire
Scooters are exempt from the plate-alternation restriction and are far easier to manage on the narrow SS163 than full-size cars. Several hire shops in Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi offer scooters from approximately €40–70/day (excluding fuel and insurance).
Requirements: a valid driving licence (category A for engine sizes over 50cc — most hires are 125cc, requiring an A1 licence minimum or full A). Helmets are mandatory.
The practical advantage of a scooter: you can filter past stationary traffic at the narrow sections, and parking is straightforward anywhere. The risk: the road surface in some sections is worn and wet cobblestone in rain.
The Chiunzi Pass alternative
If you approach the Amalfi Coast from Naples by road, consider using the A30/E45 motorway to the Angri exit, then the SS163d over the Chiunzi Pass (Valico di Chiunzi, 650m) and down to Ravello or Maiori. This completely bypasses the western section of the SS163 and brings you onto the coast from above rather than from Sorrento.
The Chiunzi route adds approximately 30 minutes to the journey from Naples compared to going via Sorrento, but avoids the plate-alternation zone entirely (only the SS163 between Vietri and Positano is restricted) and is a far less congested road.
Practical checklist before driving the SS163
- Check the current year’s plate-alternation dates on the Regione Campania website before your trip.
- Know your hire car plate ending before picking up the car.
- Book an automatic transmission vehicle — confirm with the hire company, not just the booking portal.
- Book small-class car (city car / subcompact).
- Know your accommodation’s ZTL status and whether they can register your plate.
- Carry fuel — petrol stations on the SS163 are rare (Amalfi has one). Fill up in Sorrento or Salerno before starting the coastal drive.
- Download offline maps for the sections where mobile signal drops.
Frequently asked questions about driving the SS163
Is driving the Amalfi Coast more dangerous than a normal road?
The accident rate is higher than an average Italian road — not because of extreme conditions but because of the combination of narrow width, tourist drivers unfamiliar with the road, coach traffic, and scooters filtering through gaps. Driving carefully at appropriate speed (often 20–30 km/h through the narrowest sections) eliminates most risk. Overtaking on bends is the primary cause of incidents.
Can I drive my campervan on the SS163?
Campervans and motorhomes over 3.5m width are prohibited on parts of the SS163. Even below this limit, driving a campervan between Positano and Amalfi is not practical — the turning circles at hairpin bends require more width than the road provides. Do not attempt this.
Are there tolls on the SS163?
The SS163 itself is toll-free. The A3 motorway (Naples–Salerno), which you may use to approach, has standard Italian toll charges — approximately €4–8 depending on the section.
What happens if I breach the plate-alternation rule?
A camera records your plate and issues a fine (typically €80–160 minimum, higher for repeat offences) to the registered owner of the vehicle. For hire cars, the fine is passed to the hirer by the hire company, often with an administrative charge added. This can arrive weeks after returning home.
Can I park in Ravello for the day?
Ravello has a small car park near the town entrance. In summer it fills by 10:00–10:30. Arriving before 9:30 gives a reasonable chance of finding space. Alternatively, park in Amalfi and take the SITA bus up. See Ravello guide for full logistics.
Frequently asked questions about Driving the Amalfi Coast SS163: rules, tips, and plate-alternation explained
What is the plate-alternation rule on the SS163?
How difficult is the SS163 to drive?
Is there parking in Positano and Amalfi?
Should I hire a manual or automatic car?
What type of car is best for the SS163?
Are there alternative routes to avoid the SS163?
Top experiences
Bookable activities with verified prices and instant confirmation on GetYourGuide.
